When the opener acts up
Most opener problems fall into a few categories: the opener isn't getting power or signals, the safety system is stopping it, or something mechanical has worn out. Some causes are simple to check; others need a technician.
Things to check first
- Power. Is the opener plugged in, and is the outlet working? Has a breaker or GFCI outlet tripped?
- The wall button. If the wall control works but the remote doesn't, the remote battery may be dead or the remote may need reprogramming.
- The lock. Some wall controls have a "lock" or "vacation" mode that disables remotes.
- The safety sensors. The two small sensors near the floor on each side of the door must face each other with nothing in between. If the door starts to close and then reverses, or the opener light blinks, the sensors may be misaligned, dirty or blocked. Wipe the lenses and check that both indicator lights are steady.
- The manual release. If the release cord was pulled, the door may be disconnected from the opener trolley. Re-engage it according to the opener's instructions.
Problems that need a technician
- The motor hums but the door doesn't move. This can be a broken spring (the opener can't lift the door), a stripped drive gear, or a failed capacitor. Don't keep running it.
- The door reverses for no clear reason after the sensors check out. The force or travel limits may need adjustment, or the door may be binding.
- Grinding, squealing or jerky movement, which can point to a worn drive gear, belt or chain, or to problems with the door itself.
- The opener runs but the door stays put, often a broken drive gear or a disconnected trolley.
The door and opener work together
An opener should never be adjusted to "force" a door that's out of balance. If the door is heavy, sticks or binds, fixing the door, its springs and its tracks comes first. Over-tightening the opener's force setting can defeat the safety reversal, which is there to keep the door from crushing a person, pet or car.
Repair or replace?
Common repairs include sensors, logic boards, drive gears, belts, chains and wall controls. If the opener is old, lacks modern safety features, or needs an expensive part, replacement may make more sense. Ask the technician for both prices.
Features to consider in a new opener
- Drive type: belt drives are quieter, chain drives are durable and common, and wall-mounted (jackshaft) openers free up ceiling space.
- Battery backup so the door works during power outages.
- Smartphone control and alerts if you want to check or close the door remotely.
- Rolling-code security for remotes.
- Motor size suited to your door's weight.
Safety checks to do monthly
- Place a piece of wood or a roll of paper towels on the floor in the door's path. When the door touches it, it should reverse.
- Wave an object through the sensor beam while the door is closing. It should stop and reverse.
- If either test fails, stop using the opener until it's fixed.
Questions to ask
- What failed, and is the door itself in good balance?
- Is the repair worth it, given the opener's age?
- If replacing, which drive type and features do you recommend, and why?
- Will you test the safety reversal and sensors before you leave?